Target Parameters for a Saltwater Aquarium
Here are the acceptable ranges for most saltwater aquariums. Temperate aquariums, or those that mimic a specific biotope will differ, but for the most part these are the values you will be using as a goal point:
| Ideal | Reef Tank | Macroalgae Tank | Fish Only | |
| Ammonia | 0 ppm | 0 ppm | 0 ppm | 0 ppm |
| Nitrite | 0 ppm | 0 ppm | 0 ppm | 0 ppm |
| Nitrate | 0 ppm | 0-10ppm | .5-10ppm | 0-30ppm |
| Calcium | 425 | 400-450 | 400-450 | 350-450 |
| Alkalinity (meq/L) | 3.5 | 2.5-4 meq/L | 2.5-4 meq/L | 2.5-4 meq/L |
| Alkalinity dKH | 10 | 8-11 dKH | 8-11 dKH | 8-11 dKH |
| Specific Gravity | 1.025 | 1.025-1.028 | 1.022-1.028 | 1.022-1.028 |
| Temperature (F) | 79 | 73-83 | 73-83 | 73-83 |
| pH | 8.2 | 8-8.5pH | 7.8-8.5pH | 7.8-8.5pH |
| Magnesium | 1250 | 1250-1400 | 1250-1350 | 1100-1400 |
| Phosphate | 0 ppm | 0 ppm | <.5 ppm | <.5 ppm |
When comparing your parameters to the values in the chart above, it is important to remember to plan for changes/corrections only over a period of time, and only if you are not getting the results you want. If it isn't broken, don't fix it. The exception is Ammonia, Nitrite and Nitrates, which if too high can be brought down quickly with water changes with a likley positive benefit. You will want to make sure the water used in the change is close to the other parameters that are present in your tank if you do a very large water change. Of special importance during water changes is pH, Temperature, Salinity (measured here as specific gravity; even though that is not entirely accurate that is what you will likely be using).
At this point you may be wondering, what about Boron? Manganese? Iron? etc... The thing about trace elements is they should be taken care of with regular water changes, and testing for them can get expensive, and dosing them is often problematic or unnecessary. As long as you use a quality salt brand, and are maintining the parameters above, trace elements should fall into place in your tank and you shouldn't have much to worry about in that area.
-
If you have any questions about this article let us know and hopefully we can help.
-
Guest (Mark)
PermalinkNice article. My reef tank seems to have a steady low pH of 7.8. I use natural seawater with a pH of about the same. Top off water is RO/DI with a 6.8 to 7 pH. Should I adjust the pH of the top off water to 8 - 8.3 before using?
Ammonia, nitrites, nitrates and phosphates are well within the parameters in your article and all livestock looks fine but SPS corals don't seem to do too well (bright LED lighting is used).
Thanks for you time and consideration. -
Natural sea water tanks tend to run at 7.8, same as the reef here. My tanks run around the same with natural sea water, it won't cause any issues. If you decide to bring it up; do so slowly. Sometimes the best way is to air out the room, (oxygen content compared to co2 in a room will affect a tank believe it or not), and make sure the surface is adequately agitated. This will bring up ph in some tanks, without any chemical additives. But for a natural seawater tank, I don't think it is the issue it seems it is.
Click here for answers to ordering problems, shipping rates and times, and more.
Orders placed today will ship Tuesday, May 28th. Later dates available by request.
Use the code "5off" to receive $5 off any purchase made today over $30. (Rock orders excluded)
By Default, our packages will ship "Deliver to Customer or Door". If you would like the signature requirement expressly waived, please let us know by leaving a note in the comments field, found immediately before the "Confirm Order" button during checkout. In any event, always keep an eye out for the package on delivery day. Packages are often left in mailboxes, even when they should be brought to the door. Please do not let it sit outside for hours or days if there are live animals inside. Thank you!
Items marked with a * cannot be shipped via Priority Mail.








Comments (3)